From November 1st – April 1st Montana Alpine Guides will be updating ice climbing conditions for Hyalite Canyon and other southwest Montana areas every 1-2 weeks. Ice conditions change drastically from day to day, so it is up to you the climber to decide if a route is “in” for your own abilities, acceptance of risk, etc. We will be listing routes with“YES” if the ice is in and some one has climbed it, “NO” if it’s not in, “MAYBE” for routes that were close at the time of our last observation, and “?” which means we simply don’t know. Again, this list is merely a reference and it’s up to you to find out the latest condition of a route and make your own call. Ice climbing grades can vary one number grade in either direction so keep that in mind and make your own assessments. We have decided to make this list after numerous inquiries, we hope this is a valuable resource for our climbing community at large. Keep in mind that routes can fall out of shape/conditions in an hour. Take this list with a grain of salt and walk up there to find out the final condition, you may even find it to be “in” if you are willing to rock climb over enough choss.

Help us keep this list – We have 4-8 ice climbing guides who frequent the canyon both for work and play, but we need and want your input. If you see that a route has melted out, fallen down, formed, or feel it’s in different condition from our list please let us know by sending emails to info@mtalpine.com.

For the latest avalanche conditions please visit the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Advisory.  For route descriptions, locations, etc get a hold of “Winter Dance”, by Joe Josephson or “Montana Ice” by Ron Brunckhorst”.

Cooke City Ice Conditions

Date of Last Update: 11/15/16

Abiathar Peak

  • Banchi Land – NO
  • Shower Curtain –NO
  • Tim’s Route –NO
  • Zukied – NO

Abiathar Nortwest Face Parking

  • Marlboro Madness –NO
  • Resurrection –NO
  • The House That Jack Built –NO
  • The Hydromonster –NO
  • Two Pump Chump –NO

Notes: 

Barronette Peak

  • Banana Wham – NO
  • Barronette Falls – NO
  • Dancing with the Hippo – NO
  • Fossil Fuel – NO
  • Jim & Jeff’s Excellent Adventure – NO
  • Living Fossil – NO
  • Renewable Resource – NO
  • Skull Cave Pillars – NO
  • South of Summit – NO
  • Notes: Additional info

Pebble Creek

  • Ice Box Canyon – NO
  • Petrified Dreams – NO
  • Dreams Wall Climbs NO There are 7 routes that have all been climbed on the S/SE facing wall visible from the Pebble Creek parking area.  All routes are 3-4 pitch WI 5-6+/7, M5-8, mostly PG13/R rated voyages through ephemeral ice and “stone” and are rather serious routes. Bring a rack, pins, and several long runners to sling cobbles.  If there is ice, it’s been climbed so don’t add any bolts.

Notes: Additional info

Silver Gate

  • Silver Creek Falls –NO
  • Silver Creek Variations – NO
  • Silver Gate Center – NO
  • Silver Gate Left – NO
  • Silver Gate Right – NO
  • The Park Gate – NO
  • The Plum –NO

Notes: Additional info