Description

If you have had a few days of ice climbing and instruction under your belt with hopes to improve on technique and skills for more difficult ice climbs, mountain climbs, or want to get an introduction on leading ice then this is the course for you.  We will have a brief review of the basics prior to teaching more advanced techniques.  Climbing on steeper more difficult ice climbs requires an array of advanced skills.  In this clinic we will go over how to efficiently climb steep ice and may dabble in to some basic mixed climbing.  Efficiency will be another focal point of our course to ensure participants can make the most of short winter ice climbing days and stay warm doing so.

Itinerary

Day 1
8:00 am at Montana Alpine Guides

  • Meet your guide at MAG’s shop (next to Spire Climbing Center), 13 Enterprise Blvd in Bozeman
  • Carpool to Hyalite Canyon
  • Review: knots, harnesses, belaying, basic ice climbing
  • Reading the ice: for tool/crampon placements and ice screws
  • Ice screw placement, v threads, other ice protection
  • Advanced anchor building
  • Ice screw placement on steep terrain
  • Climbing up to WI 4+/5 with technique coaching

Day 2
8:00 am at Montana Alpine Guides

  • Meet your guide at MAG’s shop (next to Spire Climbing Center), 13 Enterprise Blvd in Bozeman
  • Warm-up climb, review day 1 lessons.
  • Set up anchors with final assessment by instructors
  • How to place protection on lead (mock lead)
  • Further develop steep ice climbing techniques
  • Avalanche risk assessments, mitigation, and other objective hazards
  • Introduction to mixed climbing as time permits
  • Introduction to multi-pitch scenarios as time permits
  • Return to MAG shop between 3:30-4:30, debrief, return gear
  • Grab a MAG hoody or t-shirt
Advanced Ice Bonus Day

Dates: Dec 11, Jan 8, Feb 12,  March 12
Cost: $250
Ratio: 2 : 1 (minimum of 2 participants)

Put your honed-in ice climbing skills to use on a private guided ice climb on one of Hyalite Canyon’s test piece ice climbs. The focus will be to climb a magnificent route while bringing a teaching scenario along with us. The venue will depend on conditions, possible routes include: “The Good Looking One”, “Cleopatra’s Needle”, “Responsible Family Man”, “Killer Pillar” and many more!

Equipment List

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT:

  • Boots: single insulated ice climbing boot with crampon compatibility*
  • Climbing Harness*
  • Climbing Helmet*
  • Ice Tools (2)*
  • Crampons: step in with vertical front points must fit your boots*
  • Belay Device and locking carabiner*

**We can provide these items but we must know in advance, particularly boot size**

CLOTHING LIST:

If your body runs cold you may want to add another layer

  • Long underwear, mid-weight (top & bottom), synthetic or wool.
  • Soft shell pant (lightly insulated)
  • Fleece or sweater (medium or lightweight)
  • Fleece (heavyweight)-have as backup in case your trip is during a cold snap
  • Insulated jacket (down or synthetic)
  • Waterproof jacket with hood (Gore-Tex)
  • Waterproof pants  (Gore-Tex)
  • Socks (mid-weight)
  • Hat: fleece or wool hat that covers ears & fits under a helmet
  • Gloves: one thin pair (medium weight) and one thick pair
  • Gaiters (optional)
  • Neck gaiter/buff or scarf

OTHER:

  • Daypack: 40-55L with ice tool carrying capabilities.
  • Sun screen
  • Sunglasses
  • Thermos: optional but wonderful to have
  • 1-liter water bottle with insulated sleeve (full!)
  • Food for the day: energy bars, GU packs or Hammer Gels
  • Hint: keep some food in your pockets so it doesn’t freeze.
  • Camera (optional), we have Go Pro helmet cam mounts.

MULTI-PITCH CLIMBS ONLY:

  • Headlamp
  • Super light 10-20-liter pack to bring on route for belay coat, H2O, and food
  • Alternatively have method to clip above items to harness.
  • Optional second base layer top to change in to after long sweaty approaches
  • Plastic ice-screw holders that are pre-mounted to your harness

Course Duration

2 days

Course Dates

  • December 9-10
  • January 6-7
  • February 10-11
  • March 10-11
  • Private Courses available if our dates don’t fit your schedule.

Cost

$420

  • Includes all technical gear (Ice tools, boots, crampons, helmet, & harness)
  • No extra costs

Ratio

  • minimum of 4 : 1
  • maximum of 8 : 2

Don’t see course dates or schedule that works for you?
Visit our calendar for other course dates for you or your group.