Description

This course is designed to prepare participants for longer more technical mountain climbs. The skills we cover will prepare you for one of MAGs trips to the Peruvian Andes on peaks such as Alpamayo, Artesanraju, etc. The skills covered can be applied to many technical alpine expedition climbs whether it be in the Andes, Alaska, or in the Rockies.

SKILLS COVERED

  • Efficient ice and mixed climbing techniques and skills for long routes
  • Multi-pitch climbing strategies and techniques
  • Risk & Objective Hazard Assessments (avalanches, seracs, rock fall, crevaces)
  • Route finding & strategy
  • Anchors and rappel options
  • Team rope travel and crevasse rescue
  • Trip planning: gear, physical fitness/training

 

Itinerary

Day 1
Montana Alpine Guides

  • Meet at our shop, paperwork, issue gear if needed
  • Carpool to Hyalite Canyon
  • Efficient ice climbing technique and strategy for long routes
  • Rapelling options
  • Return to our shop by 3:30/4

Day 2:
Montana Alpine Guides

  • Introduction to multi-pitch climbing
  • rappelling set ups and anchor options
  • mixed climbing if applicable to group objectives
  • gear selections
  • rope team travel
  • Intro to crevasses

Day 3:
Montana Alpine Guides

  • Small group objective multi-pitch climbs
  • Practice strategies and efficiency
  • Practice rappel and anchor options
  • traveling as a rope team
  • short roping, 3rd and 4th class terrain movement

Day 4:
Montana Alpine Guides

  • Small group objective multi-pitch climb
  • Implement/test all skills learned from course
  • Route finding discussions, risk mitigation
  • Physical training and expedition preparation/planing
Equipment List

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT:

  • Boots: single insulated ice climbing boot with crampon compatibility*
  • Climbing Harness*
  • Climbing Helmet*
  • Ice Tools (2)*
  • Crampons: step in with vertical front points must fit your boots*
  • Belay Device and locking carabiner*

**We can provide these items but we must know in advance, particularly boot size**

CLOTHING LIST:

If your body runs cold you may want to add another layer

  • Long underwear, mid-weight (top & bottom), synthetic or wool.
  • Soft shell pant (lightly insulated)
  • Fleece or sweater (medium or lightweight)
  • Fleece (heavyweight)-have as backup in case your trip is during a cold snap
  • Insulated jacket (down or synthetic)
  • Waterproof jacket with hood (Gore-Tex)
  • Waterproof pants  (Gore-Tex)
  • Socks (mid-weight)
  • Hat: fleece or wool hat that covers ears & fits under a helmet
  • Gloves: one thin pair (medium weight) and one thick pair
  • Gaiters (optional)
  • Neck gaiter/buff or scarf

OTHER:

  • Daypack: 40-55L with ice tool carrying capabilities.
  • Sun screen
  • Sunglasses
  • Thermos: optional but wonderful to have
  • 1-liter water bottle with insulated sleeve (full!)
  • Food for the day: energy bars, GU packs or Hammer Gels
  • Hint: keep some food in your pockets so it doesn’t freeze.
  • Camera (optional), we have Go Pro helmet cam mounts.

MULTI-PITCH CLIMBS ONLY:

  • Headlamp
  • Super light 10-20-liter pack to bring on route for belay coat, H2O, and food
  • Alternatively have method to clip above items to harness.
  • Optional second base layer top to change in to after long sweaty approaches
  • Plastic ice-screw holders that are pre-mounted to your harness

Course Duration

4-Day Course

Course Dates

  • December 16-19
  • January 6-9
  • February 17-20
  • Custom Dates

Cost

    $1050 – 4-Day Course
  •  Includes all technical gear (ice tools, boots, crampons, helmet, & harness)

Ratio

4:1 max (2:1 on multi-pitch climbs)

Don’t see course dates or schedule that works for you?
Visit our calendar for other course dates for you or your group.