This course is for those who have experience climbing on ice and want to tap in to some of the techniques necessary for leading ice routes. Topics covered include:
- Risk assessment
- Ice Screw placements and removal, protection evaluation
- Multi-point/multi-directional anchor construction
- Fall factors and forces created
- Technique and lead-climbing strategy
- Lead belays and belaying from above
- Equipment selection and use
PREREQUISITES: Climbers enrolling in our Leading Ice Climbs Courses should have a solid background in climbing on ice. Contact us about options if you feel you need to gain these skills.
- Boots: single insulated ice climbing boot with crampon compatibility*
- Climbing Harness*
- Climbing Helmet*
- Ice Tools (2)*
- Crampons: step in with vertical front points must fit your boots*
- Belay Device and locking carabiner*
**We can provide these items but we must know in advance, particularly boot size**
If your body runs cold you may want to add another layer
- Long underwear, mid-weight (top & bottom), synthetic or wool.
- Soft shell pant (lightly insulated)
- Fleece or sweater (medium or lightweight)
- Fleece (heavyweight)-have as backup in case your trip is during a cold snap
- Insulated jacket (down or synthetic)
- Waterproof jacket with hood (Gore-Tex)
- Waterproof pants (Gore-Tex)
- Socks (mid-weight)
- Hat: fleece or wool hat that covers ears & fits under a helmet
- Gloves: one thin pair (medium weight) and one thick pair
- Gaiters (optional)
- Neck gaiter/buff or scarf
- Daypack: 40-55L with ice tool carrying capabilities.
- Sun screen
- Thermos: optional but wonderful to have
- 1-liter water bottle with insulated sleeve (full!)
- Food for the day: energy bars, GU packs or Hammer Gels
- Hint: keep some food in your pockets so it doesn’t freeze.
- Camera (optional), we have Go Pro helmet cam mounts.
MULTI-PITCH CLIMBS ONLY:
- Super light 10-20-liter pack to bring on route for belay coat, H2O, and food
- Alternatively have method to clip above items to harness.
- Optional second base layer top to change in to after long sweaty approaches
- Plastic ice-screw holders that are pre-mounted to your harness