Montana Alpine Guides (MAG) is proud to offer an American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) program. This course is designed for current rock climbers who wish to instruct in the single pitch environment. The SPI Course is a minimum of 27 hours, typically taught over 3 days.
Locations:
Classes will start and end at the MAG office (11 Enterprise Blvd, Bozeman, MT 59715). Classroom Field locations will take place within a 1-hour drive of Bozeman, MT. Class locations will be emailed to participants 1-2 weeks before trip dates.
Prerequisites:
- You are a Professional Member of the AMGA. Join via the AMGA website.
- You have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single-pitch crags.
- You are at least 18 years old at the time of the course.
- You have at least 12 months prior climbing experience.
- You are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).
- You have led a minimum of 15 traditional rock climbing routes (any grade).
- You are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.
The above prerequisites are absolute minimums. Without having at least this amount of experience you are unlikely to make the best use of the training. Full prerequisites and further information are available on the AMGA website.
After completing the course, candidates are eligible for the 16-hour SPI Assessment. Candidates may elect to take the assessment at any time following the course provided they meet the prerequisites; however, many candidates will require a few months to consolidate and practice the skills learned during the course. Successful completion of the assessment confers the Single Pitch Instructor certification, which is valid for 3 years.
General Itinerary:
DAY 1
Friday, Dates TBD
Meeting Location: Montana Alpine Guides, 11 Enterprise Blvd, Bozeman, MT 59715
Time: 08:00-17:00*
DAY 2
Saturday, Dates TBD
Meeting Location: Montana Alpine Guides, 11 Enterprise Blvd, Bozeman, MT 59715
Time: 08:00-17:00*
Sunday, Dates TBD
Meeting Location: Montana Alpine Guides, 11 Enterprise Blvd, Bozeman, MT 59715
Time: 08:00-17:00*
*NOTE: allow up to one hour on each end of course times for potential drive times, depending on course locations
Climbing equipment:
• UIAA/CE approved climbing helmet
• UIAA/CE approved climbing harness (with belay loop)
• Climbing shoes or approach shoes in which the candidate can climb up to 5.8
• Nut tool
• Standard free climbing rack including stoppers/nuts, cams, micro-cams, etc. with which the candidate can lead
up to 5.6
• 8 – 12 slings/runners and/or quickdraws with carabiners
• 1 or more 48” sling/runner
• 3 or more locking HMS/pearabiners
• 6 or more additional locking carabiners
• Manual Braking Device for belay/rappel, such as the Verso, ATC, etc.
• Releasable Assisted Braking Device, such as the Petzl GriGri
• 1 or more prussik loops (~1m of 5 or 6mm nylon accessory cord or Sterling Hollowblock)
• 1 or more cordelettes (5 – 6m of 7mm nylon accessory cord or 5.5mm Dyneema/spectra cord)
• One 60 – 70m single dynamic rope (9.4-10.2mm) suitable for leading and top roping
• One static or semi-static (gym line) rope 9-11mm, 30m+, for setting up anchors and fixed lines
All equipment will be inspected prior to use and is expected to be in good condition. Marking your gear is strongly
encouraged.
Clothing:
This course is rain or shine. Bring adequate clothing for the projected forecast on the days of your course. Anticipate standing around while learning, which may require additional layers to stay warm. The weather in Montana can go from sunny and warm to snowy in cold on the same day.
Consider purchasing Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual by Gaines and Martin. A copy is provided for use
during the course, but you’ll likely want your own copy for reference after the course.
Candidates are strongly encouraged to purchase The AMGA Single Pitch Manual by Gaines and Martin. A copy is provided for use
during the course, but you’ll likely want your own copy for reference after the course.
Spots still available
Course Duration
3 Days
2022 Course Dates
- Request Course Dates
Cost
$600/person
*Price do not include a 4% Public Land Use Fee
Ratio
6:1 (max of 12 participants, 2 instructors)
Note: With 12 participants, we will have two 6:1 climbing teams to maintain better social distancing.
Don’t see course dates that work for you?
Visit our calendar to check out our other courses!