ICE UPDATE: 2/16/17,  Sorry it’s been a while since our last update.  Typically we update every week. We’ve been busy teaching ice climbing courses and guiding!  In the past few weeks we’ve been up on the summit of Maid of the Mist with  great views of all of the east side climbs, ventured into Flanders, and visited most of the common areas in the canyon.  Here is the latest conditions. Let us know if you have seen anything different.  Thanks!

Notable Changes:  Ice seems to be overflowing on most of the classics, making most climbs much fatter than our last update.   Alpha & Omega are touching, Reparation is touching, and Come and Get it is in.  Unusual this year we have Mummy 3 as all ice, Mummy 4 is touching, Magically Delicious is all ice, etc.  You will find other updates on this site.

*2/16/17: With the warm weather we’ve been experiencing, we’re happy to report that although the ice has been deteriorating some, it is still holding up just fine.

From November 28 – April 1st, Montana Alpine Guides will be updating ice climbing conditions for Hyalite Canyon and other southwest Montana areas on a weekly basis.

Ice conditions change drastically from day to day, so it is up to you the climber to decide if a route is “in” for your own abilities, acceptance of risk, etc. We will be listing routes with “YES” if the ice is in and some one has climbed it, “NO” if it’s not in, “MAYBE” for routes that were close at the time of our last observation, and “?” which means we simply don’t know. Again, this list is merely a reference and it’s up to you to find out the latest condition of a route and make your own call. Ice climbing grades can vary one number grade in either direction so keep that in mind and make your own assessments. We have decided to make this list after numerous inquiries, we hope this is a valuable resource for our climbing community at large. Keep in mind that routes can fall out of shape/conditions in an hour. Take this list with a grain of salt and walk up there to find out the final condition, you may even find it to be “in” if you are willing to rock climb over enough choss.

Help us keep this list – We have 4-8 ice climbing guides who frequent the canyon both for work and play, but we need and want your input. If you see that a route has melted out, fallen down, formed, or feel it’s in different condition from our list please let us know by sending emails to info@mtalpine.com.

For the latest avalanche conditions please visit the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Advisory.

Hyalite Canyon Main Fork

Date of Last Update: 2/5/17

Black Magic Wall

  • Black Magic –NO 
  • Smears for Fears – NO
  • Smear Today, Gone Tomorrow – NO
  • The Shores of Pluto – NO 

Notes:  Keep an eye out for the smears, they come in and melt out quickly

Dribbles Area

  • Avalanche Gulch – YES, first pitch may be a bit mixed, top looks fat
  • Silken Falls –YES
  • Silken Skein Falls –YES
  • Silken Slot –YES
  • The Climb Above The Dribbles –YES, snapped off in Dec. would be a hard rock to ice transition
  • The Climb Left of The Climb Above The Dribbles –YES, good alternate to P1 for CAD
  • The Climb Right of Silken Falls –YES
  • The Dribbles –YES
  • Notes: 

Genesis Area

  • Clump Tree Gully –YES
  • Genesis I –YES
  • Genesis II –YES
  • Hang Over –YES
  • Hang Over Variation –YES
  • Lower Green Sleeves –YES
  • Sleeping Giant Falls –NO
  • The Golden Mean –NO
  • The Soprano –YES
  • Through Four More –YES
  • Upper Green Sleeves –YES
  • Willow Gully –YES
  • Zack Attack –YES, pitch 2 ice is rotted, used mixed alternate
  • Notes:

Maid of the Mist Mountain

  • Long Walk to Freedom –YES
  • Once In A Blue Moon – YES
  • N. Face route – YES
  • Maiden Voyage- YES

Notes: Additional info

Mummy Cooler Area

  • Alex’s Solo I & II – MAYBE
  • Amphitheater Corner Climbs – YES
  • Cave and Gully –YES
  • Crypt Orchid –YES
  • Desert Dance –YES, Always in, it’s a “dry” route
  • Feeding the Cat –YES
  • Mummy Cooler I –YES
  • Mummy Cooler II – YES, new bolted anchor on top right (40m)
  • Sun Vow –YES
  • Switchback Falls –Yes 
  • Switchback Variations – YES
  • The Matrix –YES, mixed start
  • The Scepter –YES
  • The White Zombie –YES
  • Upper Mummy – YES, in fat, pitch 3 is all ice, pitch 4 is touching

Notes: 

Overlook Mountain

  • Disco Party –YES
  • Poseidon –YES
  • Strong Persuader –MAYBE
  • The G-Spot –YES
  • The Monkey Ass Wall –YES

Notes: Additional info

Palace Butte

  • Palace Butte Falls – YES
  • Kansas Cornfield –?
  • Reparation – YES
  • The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse – NO

Notes: Additional info

The Responsible Area

  • Responsible Family Man –YES
  • Rocket Boy – NO
  • The Western –NO

Notes:

The Unnamed Wall

  • Bingo World – NO
  • Breadfan –almost
  • Bulldog World –YES
  • Come and Get It – YES
  • Expanding Horizons – almost
  • Fatty Access Ice –YES
  • Grassroots Revival – NO
  • Jeff’s Left –YES, thin down low
  • Jeff’s Right- YES
  • Magically Delicious –YES, all ice
  • Sharp Dressed Man – YES, Always as dry mixed
  • The Elevator Shaft –YES
  • The Fat One –YES 
  • The Good Lookin’ One – YES
  • The Itchy and Scratchy Show –YES
  • The Penthouse YES
  • The Scrappy One –YES
  • The Thrill is Gone –YES

20160319_sMagro_50751Notes: 

Twin Falls Area

  • Airborne Ranger –Tried but fell down
  • Cleopatra’s Needle –YES, in great shape
  • Equinox –?
  • Marc Antony’s Wicked Tool –NO
  • Solstice – YES
  • The Matriarch – NO
  • The Shimmy – YES
  • Twin Falls – YES

Notes: 

Winter Dance Area

  • Curtains –YES
  • Dielectric Breakdown –NO
  • Land of the Lost –YES
  • Over Easy –YES
  • Slot Corner –YES
  • Winter Dance – NO
  • The Nutcracker –YES, as dry route

Notes: Additional info

Hyalite Canyon East Fork

Date of Last Update: 2/5/17

Emerald Lake Trailhead- Road is open

  • Cave Falls – ?
  • High Fidelity – YES
  • Horsetail Falls – YES
  • Lucky Feet – YES
  • Slight of Hand – YES
  • Rock And Hoar Pic Show – YES
  • The Asteroid – YES
  • The Comet – YES
  • Notes:

Road Conditions CLOSED

Flanders Drainage - Road is open

Lower Flanders

  • Champagne Sherbet – YES
  • Champagne Slot – YES, all ice
  • High Crimes And Misdemeanors – YES
  • Right Side Routes – ?

Upper Flanders

  • Code Red – ?? Was in earlier this year
  • Fact Or Flander? – ?
  • Flanders Field – YES
  • Red Dog – YES
  • Slick Willy – ?
  • The Ice Miser – ?

Flanders Cirque

  • Bulging Blues –YES
  • Pigs In Zen –YES
  • The Ghost Of Flanders –YES

North Side of The Mummy

  • Bobo Like –YES
  • Corkscrew Silliness –YES
  • Direct Start to The Big Sleep –NO
  • Men Are From Mars –YES
  • Narcolepsy –NO
  • Lurking Smear- NO
  • Resurrection Start –?
  • The Big Sleep –?
  • The Killer Pillar –YES
  • Women Are From Venus –YES

Notes:

Road Conditions – CLOSED
Trail – Boot pack is in to Champagne climbs

Palisade Falls Area

  • Alpha –YES
  • Omega –YES
  • Palisade Falls –YES
  • Notes: Additional info