ICE UPDATE: 12/11/17  

Hyalite Canyon is quieting down after the busy weekend but the ice just keeps on growing.  A few south-facing routes are cooking a bit, but the cold nights are combating the sun quite well for the most part.

Check below for details.

From November 28 – April 1st, Montana Alpine Guides will be updating ice climbing conditions for Hyalite Canyon and other southwest Montana areas on a weekly basis.

What may be “in” for one climber may be a fright fest for the next.  Enjoy it for what it is; an ego boost or lesson in humility.  We are just providing a general idea on conditions, but not too much info in order to keep some adventure in this pursuit.

Ice conditions change drastically from day to day, so it is up to you the climber to decide if a route is “in” for your own abilities, acceptance of risk, etc. We will be listing routes with “YES” if the ice is in and some one has climbed it, “NO” if it’s not in, “MAYBE” for routes that were close at the time of our last observation, and “?” which means we simply don’t know. Again, this list is merely a reference and it’s up to you to find out the latest condition of a route and make your own call. Ice climbing grades can vary one number grade in either direction so keep that in mind and make your own assessments. We have decided to make this list after numerous inquiries, we hope this is a valuable resource for our climbing community at large. Keep in mind that routes can fall out of shape/conditions in an hour. Take this list with a grain of salt and walk up there to find out the final condition, you may even find it to be “in” if you are willing to rock climb over enough choss.

Help us keep this list – We have 4-8 ice climbing guides who frequent the canyon both for work and play, but we need and want your input. If you see that a route has melted out, fallen down, formed, or feel it’s in different condition from our list please let us know by sending emails to info@mtalpine.com.

For the latest avalanche conditions please visit the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Advisory.

Hyalite Canyon Main Fork

Date of Last Update: 12/11/17

Black Magic Wall

  • Black Magic –Yes
  • Smears for Fears – Yes, It’s been climbed twice.
  • Smear Today, Gone Tomorrow – Yes,  All but one bolt is covered by ice
  • The Shores of Pluto – Yes, thin as usual, variation crack on lookers left, then traverse in to the ice
  • Pura Vida – Yes

Notes:  Keep an eye on these as they come and go. This is the first time all of the routes have been in 10 years or so.

Dribbles Area

  • Avalanche Gulch – Yes
  • Silken Falls –Yes
  • Silken Skein Falls –?
  • Silken Slot –Maybe, its was a major waterfall, once it freezes it will get huge
  • The Climb Above The Dribbles –Yes, even the access pitch is all ice
  • The Climb Left of The Climb Above The Dribbles –Yes
  • The Climb Right of Silken Falls –Probably
  • The Dribbles –Yes,
  • Notes: 

Genesis Area

  • Clump Tree Gully –Yes
  • Genesis I –Yes
  • Genesis II –Yes
  • Hang Over –Yes
  • Hang Over Variation –Yes
  • Lower Green Sleeves –Yes
  • Sleeping Giant Falls –Yes
  • The Golden Mean –No, 
  • The Soprano –Yes
  • Through Four More –Yes
  • Upper Green Sleeves –Yes
  • Willow Gully –Yes
  • Zack Attack –Yes
  • Notes:

Mummy Cooler Area

  • Amphitheater Corner Climbs – Yes,
  • The White Zombie – Yes
  • Sun Vow – Yes
  • Desert Dance – Yes
  • Switchback Falls – Yes
  • Switchback Variations – Yes
  • Mummy Cooler I – Yes
  • Mummy Cooler II – Yes
  • The Scepter – Yes
  • Upper Mummy (3 & 4) – Yes
  • Crypt Orchid – Probably
  • The Matrix – NO?
  • Cave & Gully – Yes
  • Feeding the Cat – Yes
  • Alex’s Solo I & II –No

Overlook Mountain

  • Disco Party – Probably
  • Poseidon – Probably
  • Strong Persuader –Yes
  • The G-Spot – Probably
  • The Monkey Ass Wall – Yes

Palace Butte

  • Palace Butte Falls – Yes
  • Kansas Cornfield –Yes
  • Reparation – Yes
  • The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse – NO

Notes: Additional info

The Responsible Area

  • Responsible Family Man –Yes,
  • Rocket Boy – Yes (or it was..)
  • The Western – Probably

Notes:

The Unnamed Wall

  • Bingo World – NO
  • Breadfan –NO
  • Bulldog World –Maybe
  • Come and Get It – NO
  • Expanding Horizons – NO
  • Fatty Access Ice –Maybe
  • Grassroots Revival – NO
  • Jeff’s Left –Yes
  • Jeff’s Right-Yes
  • Magically Delicious –Yes
  • Sharp Dressed Man – NO
  • The Elevator Shaft –Yes
  • Broken Stair – Yes (mixed variation on right side of ES)
  • The Fat One –Yes
  • The Good Lookin’ One – Yes.
  • The Itchy and Scratchy Show –Yes, Fair bit of ice
  • The Penthouse– Yes
  • The Scrappy One –?
  • The Thrill is Gone –Yes

Notes: Access Trail: Take usual approach but head down stream at crossing to a bigger log.

Twin Falls Area

  • Airborne Ranger – NO
  • Cleopatra’s Needle – Yes
  • Equinox – Yes
  • Marc Antony’s Wicked Tool –NO
  • Solstice – Yes
  • The Matriarch – Yes,  sun effected
  • The Shimmy – Yes, but its thin
  • Twin Falls – Yes
  • Twenty One Stitches- Yes

Notes: 

Winter Dance Area

  • Curtains –Yes
  • Dielectric Breakdown –Yes
  • Land of the Lost –Probably
  • Over Easy –Yes
  • Slot Corner –Yes
  • Winter Dance – Maybe
  • The Nutcracker –Yes

Notes: Additional info

Hyalite Canyon East Fork

Date of Last Update: 12/11/17

Emerald Lake Trailhead

  • Cave Falls – Yes
  • High Fidelity – Yes
  • Horsetail Falls – Yes, thin at the top
  • Lucky Feet – Yes
  • Slight of Hand – Yes
  • Rock And Hoar Pic Show – Probably
  • The Asteroid – Yes
  • The Comet – Probably
  • Notes:

Road Conditions: Road is open, travel at your own risk.  High Clearance and 4×4 highly recommended, consider chains too.

Flanders Drainage

Lower Flanders

  • Champagne Sherbet – Yes
  • Champagne Slot – Yes
  • High Crimes And Misdemeanors – Yes
  • Right Side Routes – Yes

Upper Flanders

  • Code Red – ?
  • Fact Or Flander? – ?
  • Flanders Field – ?
  • Red Dog – Probably
  • Slick Willy – Probably
  • The Ice Miser – Probably

Flanders Cirque

  • Bulging Blues –Yes
  • Pigs In Zen –Yes
  • The Ghost Of Flanders –Yes
  • April Fools: Could be in great shape?

North Side of The Mummy

  • Bobo Like –Yes
  • Corkscrew Silliness –Yes
  • Direct Start to The Big Sleep –?
  • Men Are From Mars –Yes
  • Narcolepsy –Yes
  • Lurking Smear- Yes
  • Resurrection Start –Yes
  • The Big Sleep –Yes,  P3 is all ice which is rare
  • The Killer Pillar –Yes
  • Women Are From Venus –Yes

Notes:

Road Conditions: Road is open, travel at your own risk.  High Clearance and 4×4 highly recommended, consider chains too.

Palisade Falls Area

  • Alpha –Yes
  • Omega –Yes
  • Palisade Falls –Very wet, watch for falling ice in warm temps, gets lots of sun
  • Notes: Road Conditions: Road is open, travel at your own risk.  High Clearance and 4×4 highly recommended, consider chains too.o