Ice Climbs Status Charts

YES/NO/MAYBE/?

Hyalite Canyon Main Fork

Date of Last Update: 1/15/2019

Genesis Area

  • Clump Tree GullyYes
  • Genesis I –Yes
  • Genesis II – Yes
  • Hang Over –Yes
  • Hang Over Variations –Yes
  • Bourbon Tan: Yes
  • Whiskey Dick: Yes
  • Lower Green Sleeves –Yes
  • Sleeping Giant Falls –Yes
  • The Golden Mean – Yes
  • The Soprano –Yes
  • Through Four More –Yes
  • Home Field Advantage- Yes
  • Upper Green Sleeves –Yes
  • Willow Gully –Yes
  • Zack Attack –Yes
  • Notes:

Amphitheater Area

  • Fat Chance: Yes
  • Thin Chance: Yes
  • Sun Vow: yes
  • Desert Dance: Yes
  • Knoff’s D8: Yes
  • White Zombie: Yes
  • Switch Back Falls:  Yes,
  • Mummy 1: Yes

Upper Mummy Areas

  • Mummy 2: Yes
  • Scepter: Yes
  • Mummy 3 & 4: Yes
  • Crypt Orchid: Yes
  • The Matrix: Yes
  • Cave & Gully: Yes
  • Feeding the Cat: Yes
  • Alex’s Solo I & II: Yes,

The Unnamed Wall

  • Bingo World –NO
  • Breadfan –NO
  • Bulldog World –Yes
  • Come and Get It – Yes
  • Expanding Horizons –No
  • Fatty Access Ice –Maybe
  • Grassroots Revival – No
  • Jeff’s Left –Yes
  • Jeff’s Right-Yes
  • Magically Delicious –Yes
  • Sharp Dressed Man –Yes 
  • The Elevator Shaft –Yes
  • Broken Stair – Yes (mixed variation on right side of ES)
  • The Fat One –Yes
  • The Good Lookin’ One – Yes
  • The Itchy and Scratchy Show –Yes
  • The Penthouse– Yes
  • The Scrappy One –Yes
  • The Thrill is Gone –Yes, always as mixed
  • Notes: 

Black Magic Wall

  • Black Magic – Yes.
  • Smears for Fears – Getting close
  • Smear Today, Gone Tomorrow – No
  • Smear Factor – No (Smear directly right of STGT)
  • The Shores of Pluto – Yes….Variation that sneaks in from the left was done.
  • Pura Vida -No, missing ice down low.
  • Notes:  These smears are trying to form. Keep an eye on them.  

Dribbles Area

  • Avalanche Gulch – Yes
  • Silken Falls –Yes
  • Silken Skein Falls –Yes
  • Silken Slot –Yes
  • The Climb Above The Dribbles –Yes
  • The Climb Left of The Climb Above The Dribbles –Didn’t look to be in
  • The Climb Right of Silken Falls –Yes
  • The Dribbles –Yes 
  • Notes: 

The Responsible Area

  • Responsible Family Man –Yes
  • Rocket Boy – No
  • The Western – Yes
  • Irresponsible Bachelors (smears below RFM): Yes

Notes:

Overlook Mountain

  • Disco Party – Yes
  • Poseidon – Yes
  • Strong Persuader –Yes
  • The G-Spot – Yes
  • The Monkey Ass Wall – Yes

Palace Butte

  • Palace Butte Falls – Yes
  • Kansas Cornfield –Yes
  • Reparation – No
  • The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse – NO, almost…
  • Alpha Blondy- Yes
  • Hang Time – Yes
  • Burning Spear (new route 200 yards left of HT.  4 bolts to ice.  60 m to top tree)

Notes: Additional info

Twin Falls Area

  • Airborne Ranger –It was
  • Cleopatra’s Needle – Yes
  • Equinox – Yes
  • Marc Antony’s Wicked Tool –NO
  • Solstice – Yes
  • The Matriarch – Touching down! Hooked out WI5 after BIF.  Bottom is getting  a bit worked…
  • The Shimmy – Yes, getting sun damage at this point
  • Twin Falls – Yes
  • Twenty One Stitches- Yes- huge shape
  • The Cesarean Start: Yes
  • Ey of the Asp: Yes

Notes: 

Winter Dance Area

  • Curtains –Yes
  • Dielectric Breakdown –Yes
  • Land of the Lost –Yes
  • Over Easy –Yes
  • Slot Corner –Yes
  • Winter Dance – Possibly, Yes as bold mixed. Top pitch looks to be of the grade.
  • The Nutcracker –Yes. 

Notes: Additional info

Hyalite Canyon East Fork

Date of Last Update: 1/15/2019

Emerald Lake Trailhead

NOTE: We have not yet skied up this drainage but gaging on what we climbed and saw in Flanders Drainage,  this is out expectations.

  • Cave Falls – Yes
  • High Fidelity – Yes
  • Horsetail Falls – Yes
  • Lucky Feet – Yes
  • Slight of Hand – Yes
  • Rock And Hoar Pic Show – Yes
  • The Asteroid – Yes
  • The Comet – Yes

Notes: Road Conditions

  • East Hyalite is never plowed in winter, 4×4 and clearance mandatory. Bring a shovel and expect oncoming traffic in the one lane ruts.  Closes annually on 1/1.  After 1/1 you must ski in to gain access.

Flanders Drainage

Lower Flanders

  • Champagne Sherbet – Yes
  • Champagne Slot – Yes 
  • High Crimes And Misdemeanors – Yes
  • Right Side Routes – Yes

Upper Flanders

  • Code Red – yes, it was, but can fall down and reform
  • Fact Or Flander –Yes
  • Butterflies on Tears- Yes, was all ice
  • Flanders Field – Yes
  • Red Dog – Yes
  • Slick Willy –Yes
  • The Ice Miser – Yes

Flanders Cirque

  • Bulging Blues –Yes
  • Pigs In Zen –Yes
  • The Ghost Of Flanders –Yes
  • April Fools: Could be in great shape?

North Side of The Mummy

  • Bobo Like –Yes. In huge.  3rd pitch is in as mixed if you are willing to post hole up to it.
  • Corkscrew Silliness –Yes
  • Direct Start to The Big Sleep –Yes, overhanging moss & choss is always in.
  • Men Are From Mars –Yes
  • Narcolepsy –Yes, we climbed it on 11/11. Very thin above first vertical steps. Takes a hit in warm sunny temps.
  • Lurking Smear- No
  • Resurrection Start –?
  • The Big Sleep –Yes but rowdy conditions,  P1 is in, P2- not quite touching but climbable, P3 lots of ice
  • The Killer Pillar –Yes
  • Women Are From Venus –Yes

Notes: Road Conditions

  • East Hyalite is never plowed in winter, 4×4 and clearance mandatory. Bring a shovel and expect oncoming traffic in the one lane ruts.  Closes annually on 1/1.  After 1/1 you must ski in to gain access.

Palisade Falls Area

  • Alpha –Yes
  • Omega-Yes
  • Palisade Falls- Yes

From November – April 1st, Montana Alpine Guides will be updating ice climbing conditions for Hyalite Canyon and other southwest Montana areas on a weekly basis.

What may be “in” for one climber may be a fright fest for the next.  Enjoy it for what it is; an ego boost or lesson in humility.  We are just providing a general idea on conditions, but not too much info in order to keep some adventure in this pursuit.

Ice conditions change drastically from day to day, so it is up to you the climber to decide if a route is “in” for your own abilities, acceptance of risk, etc. We will be listing routes with “YES” if the ice is in and some one has climbed it, “NO” if it’s not in, “MAYBE” for routes that were close at the time of our last observation, and “?” which means we simply don’t know. Again, this list is merely a reference and it’s up to you to find out the latest condition of a route and make your own call. Ice climbing grades can vary one number grade in either direction so keep that in mind and make your own assessments. We have decided to make this list after numerous inquiries, we hope this is a valuable resource for our climbing community at large. Keep in mind that routes can fall out of shape/conditions in an hour. Take this list with a grain of salt and walk up there to find out the final condition, you may even find it to be “in” if you are willing to rock climb over enough choss.

Help us keep this list – We have 4-8 ice climbing guides who frequent the canyon both for work and play, but we need and want your input. If you see that a route has melted out, fallen down, formed, or feel it’s in different condition from our list please let us know by sending emails to info@mtalpine.com.

For the latest avalanche conditions please visit the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Advisory.

Hyalite Ice Conditions 11/20/18

This year is lining up to be another banner year in Hyalite!  As of now most routes are in climbable condition, though routes that receive more sun have taken a bit of a hit from the last few warm days. Mean while the smears are getting just…
SAM HENNESSEY

Flanders and Main Drainage

We climbed Narcolepsy in Flanders and had good views of other routes in the area. Released a small wind slab on the approach. Just sn'ice in the middle section with no good gear, but easier climbing. Other MAG guides ventured else where in Main…