ICE UPDATE: 3/29/2018

We were up in the canyon again today and  lots of routes are still in great shape.  Come & Get It is IN, but other routes on the unnamed wall are taking a bit of a hit.  Just two days left in the ice season before they close the road on April 1st.

Check out details on climbs below.  Let us know if you see other changes we haven’t listed here and we will update.

Road Conditions:  Nearly dry pavement up to reservoir.  Reservoir to Grotto TH is exposed dirt in spots and deep ruts in others.  Subaru clearance and up should be fine. Watch for black ice.

Check below for details.

From November 28 – April 1st, Montana Alpine Guides will be updating ice climbing conditions for Hyalite Canyon and other southwest Montana areas on a weekly basis.Save

What may be “in” for one climber may be a fright fest for the next.  Enjoy it for what it is; an ego boost or lesson in humility.  We are just providing a general idea on conditions, but not too much info in order to keep some adventure in this pursuit.

Ice conditions change drastically from day to day, so it is up to you the climber to decide if a route is “in” for your own abilities, acceptance of risk, etc. We will be listing routes with “YES” if the ice is in and some one has climbed it, “NO” if it’s not in, “MAYBE” for routes that were close at the time of our last observation, and “?” which means we simply don’t know. Again, this list is merely a reference and it’s up to you to find out the latest condition of a route and make your own call. Ice climbing grades can vary one number grade in either direction so keep that in mind and make your own assessments. We have decided to make this list after numerous inquiries, we hope this is a valuable resource for our climbing community at large. Keep in mind that routes can fall out of shape/conditions in an hour. Take this list with a grain of salt and walk up there to find out the final condition, you may even find it to be “in” if you are willing to rock climb over enough choss.

Help us keep this list – We have 4-8 ice climbing guides who frequent the canyon both for work and play, but we need and want your input. If you see that a route has melted out, fallen down, formed, or feel it’s in different condition from our list please let us know by sending emails to info@mtalpine.com.

For the latest avalanche conditions please visit the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Advisory.

Hyalite Canyon Main Fork

Date of Last Update: 3/29/2018

Black Magic Wall

  • Black Magic –Yes, holding in there.  Top of crack is filled wit ice.
  • Smears for Fears – No
  • Smear Today, Gone Tomorrow – No
  • Smear Factor – No
  • The Shores of Pluto – No 
  • Pura Vida – No
  • Notes:  

Dribbles Area

  • Avalanche Gulch – Yes. 
  • Silken Falls –Yes.
  • Silken Skein Falls –Maybe
  • Silken Slot –Yes
  • The Climb Above The Dribbles –Yes
  • The Climb Left of The Climb Above The Dribbles –Yes, but thinner
  • The Climb Right of Silken Falls –Probably
  • The Dribbles –Yes, begins to get some sun affected ice this time of year.
  • Notes: 

Genesis Area

  • Clump Tree Gully –Yes
  • Genesis I –Yes, as big as its been all year
  • Genesis II –Yes, great shape
  • Hang Over –Yes,
  • Hang Over Variation –Yes
  • Lower Green Sleeves –Yes
  • Sleeping Giant Falls –Yes
  • The Golden Mean –Yes, barely touching
  • The Soprano –Yes, mostly snow (first ski descent?)
  • Through Four More –Yes
  • Home Field Advantage-?
  • Upper Green Sleeves –Yes
  • Willow Gully –Yes
  • Zack Attack –Yes, Lots of rock on P1 & P2 but still climbable
  • Notes:

4

Overlook Mountain

  • Disco Party – Probably
  • Poseidon – Probably
  • Strong Persuader –Yes
  • The G-Spot – Probably
  • The Monkey Ass Wall – Yes, 

Palace Butte

  • Palace Butte Falls – Yes
  • Kansas Cornfield –Yes
  • Reparation – Yes
  • The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse – NO

Notes: Additional info

The Responsible Area

  • Responsible Family Man –Yes,  Looks fat from across the valley
  • Rocket Boy – No
  • The Western – Probably

Notes:

The Unnamed Wall

  • Bingo World –Not touching
  • Breadfan –NO
  • Bulldog World –Yes
  • Come and Get It – Yes
  • Expanding Horizons –?
  • Fatty Access Ice –Maybe
  • Grassroots Revival – NO
  • Jeff’s Left –Barely
  • Jeff’s Right-Yes
  • Magically Delicious –Yes, mostly ice
  • Sharp Dressed Man – Yes
  • The Elevator Shaft –Yes
  • Broken Stair – Yes (mixed variation on right side of ES)
  • The Fat One –Yes
  • The Good Lookin’ One – A bit rickety
  • The Itchy and Scratchy Show –Yes, Fair bit of ice
  • The Penthouse– Yes
  • The Scrappy One –Yes
  • The Thrill is Gone –Yes

Notes: 

Twin Falls Area

  • Airborne Ranger –Reformed
  • Cleopatra’s Needle – Yes
  • Equinox – Yes
  • Marc Antony’s Wicked Tool –NO
  • Solstice – Yes
  • The Matriarch – No
  • The Shimmy – Maybe
  • Twin Falls – Yes
  • Twenty One Stitches- NO
  • The Cesarean Start: Yes

Notes: 

Winter Dance Area

  • Curtains –Yes
  • Dielectric Breakdown –No, thin and cooked out
  • Land of the Lost –Yes
  • Over Easy –Yes
  • Slot Corner –Yes
  • Winter Dance – No
  • The Nutcracker –Yes, top ice pitch is probably quite delaminated

Notes: Additional info

Hyalite Canyon East Fork

Date of Last Update: 3/29/2018

Emerald Lake Trailhead

  • Cave Falls – ?
  • High Fidelity – ?
  • Horsetail Falls – Yes
  • Lucky Feet – Yes
  • Slight of Hand – Yes
  • Rock And Hoar Pic Show – Probably
  • The Asteroid – Yes
  • The Comet – Yes
  • Notes:

Road Conditions: Closes annually on 1/1.  After 1/1 you must ski in to gain access.

Flanders Drainage

Lower Flanders

  • Champagne Sherbet – Yes
  • Champagne Slot – Yes- all ice
  • High Crimes And Misdemeanors – Yes
  • Right Side Routes – Yes

Upper Flanders

  • Code Red – ?
  • Fact Or Flander? – ?
  • Flanders Field – ?
  • Red Dog – Probably
  • Slick Willy – Probably
  • The Ice Miser – Probably

Flanders Cirque

  • Bulging Blues –Yes
  • Pigs In Zen –Yes
  • The Ghost Of Flanders –Yes
  • April Fools: Could be in great shape?

North Side of The Mummy

  • Bobo Like –Yes
  • Corkscrew Silliness –Yes
  • Direct Start to The Big Sleep –?
  • Men Are From Mars –Yes
  • Narcolepsy –Yes
  • Lurking Smear- ?
  • Resurrection Start –?
  • The Big Sleep –Yes,  P1 is looking thinner, P3 was all ice, which is rare
  • The Killer Pillar –Yes
  • Women Are From Venus –Yes

Notes:

Road Conditions: Closes annually on 1/1.  After 1/1 you must ski in to gain access.

Palisade Falls Area

  • Alpha –Yes, Gets cooked out late season, south facing
  • Omega –Yes, Gets cooked out late season, south facing
  • Palisade Falls –?, Gets cooked out late season, south facing
  • Notes: Road Conditions: Road closes on 1/1 . Ski in after that date.