Weekly Reports

SAM HENNESSEY

Flanders and Main Drainage

We climbed Narcolepsy in Flanders and had good views of other routes in the area. Released a small wind slab on the approach. Just sn'ice in the middle section with no good gear, but easier climbing. Other MAG guides ventured else where in Main…
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Hyalite Ice Conditions Update - 12/8/15

This warm weather will take a toll on some routes and help others to grow. With the warm weather came super high winds = wind loading so watch for deposition and wind slabs through out the canyon - As always check GNFAC for the latest snow conditions.…

Ice Climbs Status Charts

YES/NO/MAYBE/?

Hyalite Canyon Main Fork

Date of Last Update: 11/15/2018

Genesis Area

  • Clump Tree GullyThin, please give it time to form up fat
  • Genesis I –Thin, open water in spots, very soft and wet.  Please give it time to form a bit more
  • Genesis II – Thin, Climbable but consider giving it time to form up
  • Hang OverThin, Climbable but consider giving it time to form up
  • Hang Over Variation –Yes
  • Lower Green SleevesThin, please give it time to form up fat
  • Sleeping Giant Falls –Yes
  • The Golden Mean –?
  • The Soprano –Snow covered, thin ice
  • Through Four More –?
  • Home Field Advantage-?
  • Upper Green SleevesThin, please give it time to form up fat
  • Willow GullyThin, please give it time to form up fat
  • Zack Attack –Yes, in great shape. Has been climbed several times. Watch for small wind slabs
  • Notes:

Amphitheater Area

  • Fat Chance: No, Please be patient and allow to form up thicker
  • Thin Chance: No, Please be patient and allow to form up thicker
  • Sun Vow: No,
  • Desert Dance: Yes
  • Knoff’s D8: Yes
  • White Zombie: No
  • Switch Back Falls: No, Please be patient and allow to form up thicker
  • Mummy 1: Thin

Upper Mummy Areas

  • Mummy 2: Yes, but thin.  Climbed on 11/14. “climbable but empty in the middle”
  • Scepter: Yes, super wet. Climbable at “early-season difficult”
  • Mummy 3 & 4: Yes
  • Crypt Orchid: ?
  • The Matrix: ?
  • Cave & Gully: ?
  • Feeding the Cat: ?
  • Alex’s Solo I & II: Yes, both in.  Boot pack is in as well

The Unnamed Wall

  • Bingo World –NO
  • Breadfan –NO
  • Bulldog World –Yes
  • Come and Get It – Yes
  • Expanding Horizons –?
  • Fatty Access Ice –Maybe
  • Grassroots Revival – NO
  • Jeff’s Left –?
  • Jeff’s Right-?
  • Magically Delicious –?
  • Sharp Dressed Man – ?
  • The Elevator Shaft –Skinny but ice is there
  • Broken Stair – Yes (mixed variation on right side of ES)
  • The Fat One –Climbable but not fat
  • The Good Lookin’ One – Thin but in
  • The Itchy and Scratchy Show –?
  • The Penthouse– ?
  • The Scrappy One –?
  • The Thrill is Gone –Getting there, Always climbable as mixed

Notes: 

Black Magic Wall

  • Black Magic – Yes
  • Smears for Fears – No
  • Smear Today, Gone Tomorrow – No
  • Smear Factor – No
  • The Shores of Pluto – No 
  • Pura Vida -Trying…
  • Notes:  These smears are trying to form. Keep an eye on them.  

Dribbles Area

  • Avalanche Gulch – Yes, as mixed
  • Silken Falls –Has ice
  • Silken Skein Falls –?
  • Silken Slot –Partially climbed but needs  a bit more ice…any day now
  • The Climb Above The Dribbles –Yes
  • The Climb Left of The Climb Above The Dribbles –Maybe
  • The Climb Right of Silken Falls –?
  • The Dribbles –Has ice, but needs a bit more, hollow shell up high right now, exposed water in spots
  • Notes: 

The Responsible Area

  • Responsible Family Man –Ice on route, but needs some growth
  • Rocket Boy – No
  • The Western – ?
  • Irresponsible Bachelors (smears below RFM): probably

Notes:

Overlook Mountain

  • Disco Party – Yes
  • Poseidon – Yes
  • Strong Persuader –Yes
  • The G-Spot – Yes
  • The Monkey Ass Wall – YEs

Palace Butte

  • Palace Butte Falls – Yes
  • Kansas Cornfield –?
  • Reparation – No
  • The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse – NO

Notes: Additional info

Twin Falls Area

  • Airborne Ranger –No
  • Cleopatra’s Needle – Yes, thin up top. Has been climbed several times.
  • Equinox – ?
  • Marc Antony’s Wicked Tool –NO
  • Solstice – Yes
  • The Matriarch – Has been climbed in similar condition. 
  • The Shimmy – Maybe
  • Twin Falls – Yes, but thin
  • Twenty One Stitches- NO
  • The Cesarean Start: Yes

Notes: 

Winter Dance Area

  • Curtains –Yes
  • Dielectric Breakdown –Has ice but very thin
  • Land of the Lost –Yes
  • Over Easy –Hard to say through snow storm
  • Slot Corner –Yes
  • Winter Dance – Possibly, Yes as bold mixed.
  • The Nutcracker –Yes

Notes: Additional info

Hyalite Canyon East Fork

Date of Last Update: 11/15/2018

Emerald Lake Trailhead

NOTE: We have not yet skied up this drainage but gaging on what we climbed and saw in Flanders Drainage,  this is out expectations.

  • Cave Falls – ?
  • High Fidelity – ?
  • Horsetail Falls – ?
  • Lucky Feet – Yes
  • Slight of Hand – ?
  • Rock And Hoar Pic Show – Probably
  • The Asteroid – Probably
  • The Comet – Probably

Notes: Road Conditions

  • East Hyalite is never plowed in winter, 4×4 and clearance mandatory. Bring a shovel and expect oncoming traffic in the one lane ruts.  Closes annually on 1/1.  After 1/1 you must ski in to gain access.
  • 11/11/18: Currently very manageable with 4×4 and clearance.

Flanders Drainage

Lower Flanders

  • Champagne Sherbet – Yes
  • Champagne Slot – Yes, thin
  • High Crimes And Misdemeanors – Yes
  • Right Side Routes – Yes

Upper Flanders

  • Code Red – ?
  • Fact Or Flander? – ?
  • Flanders Field – ?
  • Red Dog – Probably
  • Slick Willy – Probably
  • The Ice Miser – Probably

Flanders Cirque

  • Bulging Blues –Yes
  • Pigs In Zen –Yes
  • The Ghost Of Flanders –Yes
  • April Fools: Could be in great shape?

North Side of The Mummy

  • Bobo Like –Yes
  • Corkscrew Silliness –Yes
  • Direct Start to The Big Sleep –?
  • Men Are From Mars –Yes
  • Narcolepsy –Yes, we climbed it on 11/11. Very thin above first vertical steps.
  • Lurking Smear- No
  • Resurrection Start –?
  • The Big Sleep –Yes but rowdy conditions,  P1 is thin but in, P2- has been climbed in these conditions, P3 all ice, thin in spots
  • The Killer Pillar –Touching as WI 6+ dagger, give it time to fully connect.  Shouldn’t be long
  • Women Are From Venus –Yes

Notes: Road Conditions

  • East Hyalite is never plowed in winter, 4×4 and clearance mandatory. Bring a shovel and expect oncoming traffic in the one lane ruts.  Closes annually on 1/1.  After 1/1 you must ski in to gain access.
  • 11/11/18: Currently very manageable with 4×4 and clearance.

Palisade Falls Area

  • Alpha –No
  • Omega –No
  • Palisade Falls –No
  • Notes: Road Conditions
    • East Hyalite is never plowed in winter, 4×4 and clearance mandatory. Bring a shovel and expect oncoming traffic in the one lane ruts.  Closes annually on 1/1.  After 1/1 you must ski in to gain access.
    • 11/11/18: Currently very manageable with 4×4 and clearance.

SAM HENNESSEY

Flanders and Main Drainage

We climbed Narcolepsy in Flanders and had good views of other routes in the area. Released a small wind slab on the approach. Just sn'ice in the middle section with no good gear, but easier climbing. Other MAG guides ventured else where in Main…
,

Hyalite Ice Conditions Update - 12/8/15

This warm weather will take a toll on some routes and help others to grow. With the warm weather came super high winds = wind loading so watch for deposition and wind slabs through out the canyon - As always check GNFAC for the latest snow conditions.…

From November – April 1st, Montana Alpine Guides will be updating ice climbing conditions for Hyalite Canyon and other southwest Montana areas on a weekly basis.

What may be “in” for one climber may be a fright fest for the next.  Enjoy it for what it is; an ego boost or lesson in humility.  We are just providing a general idea on conditions, but not too much info in order to keep some adventure in this pursuit.

Ice conditions change drastically from day to day, so it is up to you the climber to decide if a route is “in” for your own abilities, acceptance of risk, etc. We will be listing routes with “YES” if the ice is in and some one has climbed it, “NO” if it’s not in, “MAYBE” for routes that were close at the time of our last observation, and “?” which means we simply don’t know. Again, this list is merely a reference and it’s up to you to find out the latest condition of a route and make your own call. Ice climbing grades can vary one number grade in either direction so keep that in mind and make your own assessments. We have decided to make this list after numerous inquiries, we hope this is a valuable resource for our climbing community at large. Keep in mind that routes can fall out of shape/conditions in an hour. Take this list with a grain of salt and walk up there to find out the final condition, you may even find it to be “in” if you are willing to rock climb over enough choss.

Help us keep this list – We have 4-8 ice climbing guides who frequent the canyon both for work and play, but we need and want your input. If you see that a route has melted out, fallen down, formed, or feel it’s in different condition from our list please let us know by sending emails to info@mtalpine.com.

For the latest avalanche conditions please visit the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Advisory.