Peak Climbs: Nevado Urus, Ishinca, & Tocllaraju
The Ishinca Valley is home to four prominent high-altitude peaks; Urus, Ishinca, Tocllaraju, & Ranrapalca. Any single one of these summits makes for a worthy expedition, but climbing three peaks,makes for an incredible trip, and that is our teams objective. Our base camp is positioned in a beautiful high alpine meadow at the head of the Ishinca Valley dotted with glacial erratic granite boulders, and high peaks towering over head. We have donkeys to carry our loads for the hike in as we further acclimatize with light daypacks. Our cook at camp prepares all meals allowing us ample time to focus on our climbs, relaxing, and acclimatizing.
Urus: We wake up and ascend the slopes of Urus by headlamp arriving at the glacier by day break. This climb helps to further our acclimatization and offers commanding views for our next objectives on Ishinca and Tocllaraju. The snow slopes rarely get steeper than 30 degrees on this ascent. We will review glacier travel skills and or introduce skills to party members refining the skills and travel techniques for our rope team on Ishinca and Tocllaraju.
Ishinca: Depending on group skill levels and acclimatization we will decide whether to move camp up to the lake below Ishinca (~16,000’) or stay in base camp. This will give us the chance to further acclimatize and to further practice glacier travel techniques if necessary. On summit day we start by headlamp eventually gaining Ishinca’s summit ridge-line around sunrise. We select one of two routes depending on conditions. We then descend back to base camp to rest and prepare for our next climb
Tocllaraju: Tocllaraju mandates moving up to a high camp to make for a shorter summit day. We spend a day ascending from basecamp to Tocllaraju’s Moraine at ~17,500’. We settle into the terraced rock platforms for the afternoon prepping our early morning start. Again we begin climbing at dark via the west ridge to then gain the south face. This objective is steeper, higher, and longer than our previous climbs, but at this point we are well acclimatized. We then descend back to camp, optionally bumping back down to basecamp.
Prerequisites: This expedition is for climbers with glacier travel technique skills and experience traveling on glaciers as a rope team. The objectives are for those looking to get into high altitude mountaineering in one of the worlds most accessible and beautiful mountain ranges. We offer training seminars for those without glacier travel experience.
Travel: Flights should be arranged to arrive the evening on Day 1 from our itinerary. Flights home should be scheduled for 10:00 pm or later on the last day of our itinerary or for the following morning. Travel insurance is highly recommended. MAG will arrange and cover your private airport pickup and transfers to the bus station on the front end of your trip. If you decide to stay overnight on the tail end of your trip you will need to cover that expense.
- Pick up from the Lima airport and drop off at the airport at the end of the trip.
- Bus transport from Lima to Huaraz, Huaraz to Lima
- Pick up at the Huaraz bus station and drop off at the end of the trip
- Lunch for acclimatization hikes
- Transport to and from acclimatization hikes and all other itinerary destinations
- All hotel accommodation for itinerary both in Lima and Huaraz except hotel in Lima on last day Park passes
- Donkeys for approaches when feasible. Porters to carry all group gear up to high camps (clients carry all their personal gear and stuff)
- Expedition cook to prepare all expedition meals and snacks
- Expedition Eating tent with tables and chairs
- Bathroom tent for all base camps
- Sleeping tents and foam mats
- High mountain stoves and gas
- Cook tent and stove, pots, plates and all eating utensils
- All group climbing gear
- In town food and drinks
- Gratuity to guides, porters, and donkey handlers
- Personal climbing gear – Ice axes, harnesses, crampons, helmets
- Personal warm clothes, and personal sleeping set up
- Anything not mentioned in itinerary
- Trip Insurance
- Day 1: Private pick-up at the Lima Airport. Transfer to hotel in Lima
- Day 2: Private transfer in the morning to the bus station. First class bus to Huaraz bus station pickup
- Day 3: Orientation meeting in hotel, 4-hour acclimatization hike to the Puka Ventana, return to Huaraz hotel.
- Day 4: Day hike to Laguna Churup 4450m (14,600’), approximately 5 hours of hiking round trip. Return to Huaraz, night in hotel.
- Day 5: Head out to Pashpa. Hike up to the Ishinca Base Camp ~4,400m (14,400’)
- Day 6: Summit day on Urus 5450m (~17,900’)
- Day 7: Rest Day- Base Camp
- Day 8: Summit day Ishinca 5530m (~18,140’)
- Day 9: Move up to Moraine Camp on Tocllaraju ~17,500
- Day 10: Summit day Tocllaraju 6032m (19,784’) and back to base camp
- Day 11: Return to Huaraz
- Day 12: Bus to Lima and transport to either hotel or airport – end of services