Companion and Self Rescue

DESCRIPTION:

Would you know what to do if your climbing partner was injured mid-climb? Climbing can easily lead us into dangerous situations where being self-sufficient can make the difference between life and death. How would you deal with a stuck rope, too short a rope, bad weather, mandatory retreat, or an injury that could leave you and your partner incapacitated? This Self-Rescue course is designed to teach participants the skills and techniques necessary to improvise a safe way out of a crisis situation. We will utilize the standard equipment used on a typical day of climbing. These techniques can be effective on snow, rock and ice.

OVERVIEW: Learn climbing rescue techniques for yourself and your partners

• Safety planning, risk assessment, management, and mitigation
• Raising/Hauling systems for self rescue – 2:1, 3:1, 5:1, 6:1
• Pick-Offs – patient pickoffs for self-rescue, Multi-Pitch Descents with a Patient
• Rappelling (standard, extended, counterbalance, tandem and pre-rigged)
• Lowering Systems – with a munter, tube-style device, auto-blocking device, and break assisted device.
• Rope ascension techniques – friction-hitch systems, auto-blocking devices, and assisted breaking device
• Escaping the belay- from above or below; off an auto-blocking device/anchor or your harness.
• Anchor options and systems
• Passing Knots, Load Transfers
• Knots , bends, & hitches used in self-rescue
• Load releasable hitches – munter-mule
• Equipment use and improvisation options

PREREQUISITES:

Climbers enrolling in MAG’s Self/Companion Rescue course should have experience in multi-pitch climbing. Private courses are available for those lacking this experience. Upon completion of our Self/Companion Rescue Course participants will have acquired the knowledge to carry out a straightforward self-rescue in the midst of vertical climbing terrain.

TIME: 2-day course, Sat & Sun, 8:00am – 4:00pm

RATIO: Max 4:1

INCLUDED:

• Professional climbing guide
• Personal climbing gear (rock climbing shoes, harness, helmet)
• Group gear: ropes, carabiners, climbing protection, slings, cordelettes, etc.

EXCLUDED:

• Food, transport, lodging
• Technical clothing, backpack, etc.
• Rescue insurance
• Trip insurance
• Guide gratuity
• Unforeseen expenses from circumstances outside of Montana Alpine Guides’ control

MEETING LOCATION: 

Spire Climbing Center, 13 Enterprise Blvd. Bozeman, MT