This course is designed for those with past ice climbing experience who want to focus on mixed climbing. This course will focus on traditional mixed climbing on more vertical and lower angle rock in order to gain daggers and smear of ice. As with all forms of climbing, technique is crucial when transferring in to mixed climbing. The natural progression in ice climbing takes us on to rock in order to get to free-hanging ice or in order to ascend large alpine routes. In this 1-day course we will go over many of the techniques needed to get to those hanging dazzlers and how to do it as safely as possible. We will also go over the techniques needed to ascend traditional mixed routes similar to what you may find in the mountains.
- Review of steep ice climbing techniques and skills
- Tool and crampon placements on the rock (edges, hooks, torques, etc)
- Gear selection and protection types in various types of rock
- Mixed climbing technique on low angle, vertical, and steep mixed climbs
- matching tools, stein pulls, side pulls, etc
7:30 am at Montana Alpine Guides
- Meet your guide at MAG’s shop, 13 Enterprise Blvd in Bozeman.
- Fit all necessary gear and fill out paper work
- Carpool to Hyalite Canyon
- Full day of instruction and mixed climbing
- Return to our shop between 3:30-4:30 pm
- Return gear, debrief from trip, grab a MAG hoody or shirt.
Dates: Dec 10, Dec 17, Jan 21, Feb 18
Ratio: 2:1 (minimum of 2 participants)
Put your honed-in mixed climbing skills to use on a private guided ice/mixed climb on one of Hyalite Canyon’s test piece ice climbs. The focus will be to climb a magnificent route while bringing a teaching scenario along with us. This deal is only available to those who have completed the Mixed Climbing course.
- Boots: single insulated ice climbing boot with crampon compatibility*
- Climbing Harness*
- Climbing Helmet*
- Ice Tools (2)*
- Crampons: step in with vertical front points must fit your boots*
- Belay Device and locking carabiner*
**We can provide these items but we must know in advance, particularly boot size**
If your body runs cold you may want to add another layer
- Long underwear, mid-weight (top & bottom), synthetic or wool.
- Soft shell pant (lightly insulated)
- Fleece or sweater (medium or lightweight)
- Fleece (heavyweight)-have as backup in case your trip is during a cold snap
- Insulated jacket (down or synthetic)
- Waterproof jacket with hood (Gore-Tex)
- Waterproof pants (Gore-Tex)
- Socks (mid-weight)
- Hat: fleece or wool hat that covers ears & fits under a helmet
- Gloves: one thin pair (medium weight) and one thick pair
- Gaiters (optional)
- Neck gaiter/buff or scarf
- Daypack: 40-55L with ice tool carrying capabilities.
- Sun screen
- Thermos: optional but wonderful to have
- 1-liter water bottle with insulated sleeve (full!)
- Food for the day: energy bars, GU packs or Hammer Gels
- Hint: keep some food in your pockets so it doesn’t freeze.
- Camera (optional), we have Go Pro helmet cam mounts.
MULTI-PITCH CLIMBS ONLY:
- Super light 10-20-liter pack to bring on route for belay coat, H2O, and food
- Alternatively have method to clip above items to harness.
- Optional second base layer top to change in to after long sweaty approaches
- Plastic ice-screw holders that are pre-mounted to your harness