Gannett Peak, Wind River Mountains, Goose Neck Route, East Face Route, Mountaineering, Wyoming, Montana, Montana Alpine Guides

Can I Climb Gannett Peak?

We have guided dozens of trips up Gannett Peak (WY state high point), so it’s logical that we receive numerous calls asking “Can I Climb Gannett?” Our response always rings the same, “On a guided trip with Montana Alpine Guides, it comes down to physical fitness as we handle all the rest”. However, if you are on your own, there is quite a bit more to consider. Gannett Peak is essentially a backpacking trip with a technical snow climb at altitude in the middle, followed by a backpacking trip out. In route to the summit you will travel through bear country, cross challenging rivers, boulder fields, complex route finding, pre-dawn starts, and technical snow climbing, among other challenges.  

Physically you should be comfortable hiking for two-three full days with a 40-50 lb pack to your high camp. Summit day on Gannett requires waking up pre-dawn and navigating by headlight to start out your eight to twelve hour summit attempt with gains between 2,000’- 3,000’ and equal losses. Ultimately you need to save some in the tank to then hike out the same route on your final two days.  Fortunately you can train any where, even in Florida, so with enough forethought anyone can get into shape. Then again, with enough prior fitness and motivation a week will do.  

The mandatory technical skills are a bit harder to acquire, you don’t just gain mountain sense through a book and it’s hard to learn how to travel safely on snow with ropes, crampons, and ice axes without having been on snow. You need these skills on Gannett Peak. You need to know how to read the weather, deal with thunderstorms and lightning, how to time your ascent, when to turn around, etc.

If you choose to go on your own you should feel comfortable traveling as a rope team on snow and know how to manage safety while climbing in your group. The snow can range from knee deep slush to icy hardpack, the former can take far more energy, the latter greatly increases the severity of risk. Plan  and know how to use ropes, ice tools, crampons, rock gear and snow pickets as you see fit to maintain safety.  

On a trip with  MAG (Montana Alpine Guides) we handle all logistics and technical components so that you don’t have to. Whether you join MAG or not you will need to consider what we would cover including: individual and group technical gear selection, cooking set up and food selection for meals, logistics (transport, permits, porters, etc), responsible camping and food storage in bear country, high camp locations, route finding where no trails are present in open meadows, boulders, and snow fields; and of course all technical ropework travel to safely ascend (and descend) Wyoming’s highest point.  

Sam Magro is owner and lead climbing guide with Montana Alpine Guides. MAG offers guided trips on Gannett Peak from June-September in addition to year round technical ice and rock climbing trips as well as backcountry skiing out of their home location in Bozeman, MT.  To get further information on their trips visit

Gear Sale, Ice Climbing Boots, Used, Boot Rentals, Used Ice Climbing Boots, Bozeman, Big Sky, Montana, Hyalite Canyon

Spring Gear Sale

Montana Alpine Guides is having a sale on all of our current ice climbing equipment in an effort to make room for next years gear.  Most climbing gear is in great shape. The sale includes gear we use for our clients while guiding and some of our rental gear as well will through the end of April. This is the perfect time to get yourself in some new-to-you boots, crampons, or ice tools for next season without having to pay for brand new equipment. We pride ourselves in the care that we take and the quality of our gear.



Scarpa Mont Blanc ($295 and up) 2015 models, excellent condition

  • Size 38- $325
  • Size 39- $325
  • Size 39.5- $325
  • Size 40- $325
  • Size 41 – $325
  • Size 42 – $325
  • Size 42 – $325
  • Size 42.5 – $325
  • Size 43 – $325 SOLD
  • Size 43.5 -$350 SOLD
  • Size 45 – $295

Scarpa Phantom Guides 

  • Size 47 – $250.  Solid ice boot with over gaiter.

La Sportiva Nepal Evo ($150 and up)

  • Size 38.5 – $275
  • Size 43.5 – $325, excellent condition SOLD
  • Size 44 – $225, excellent condition
  • Size 44 – $150, slightly damaged toe bail

Plastic Boots/Double Boots:

  • Scarpa Alpha Plastics & Inverno Plastics: $225-$250; Miscellaneous Plastics: $50-$75


  • Petzl Lynx Crampons (2015 models) – $150 (8 pairs available)-  ALL SOLD
  • Petzl Dart Crampons- $130,  (1 pair available) mono-point crampon for ice and mixed
  • Black Diamond Crampons –  $75 Fully Automatic – (Several pairs available)


  • Petzl Nomics: $350/pr –SOLD!
  • Petzl Quarks: $310/pr (3 pr. available).  Picks in good shape.  – 1 Pr. SOLD
  • Black Diamond Reactors: $240/pr (w/Brand New Picks), Older picks: $195/pair
  • Black Diamond Ice Tools: $200/pr (miscellaneous recurved tools w/ trigger rest): 
  • Black Diamond Rage: $75/pc. *Great mountain tool* – 2 Pc. SOLD
Ice climbing, courses, instruction, classes, Hyalite Canyon, Montana Alpine Guides

Fifth Annual Military Veterans Ice Climbing Trip

We just finished one of our favorite group trips of the year, marking the 5th annual military veterans ice climb with Montana Alpine Guides in Hyalite Canyon. We spent four days sharing ice climbs and conversation with this great group with instruction from a solid crew including Sam Magro, Adam Knoff, Kyle Rott, Nate Opp, Aki Joy, and Conrad Anker. Veterans arrived from all corners of the country, some having never climbed ice before, and all left as experienced ice climbers with a group of solid new friends.

It’s always an amazing experience to share what we love to do with such an appreciative group who is willing to give it all they have and have fun throughout the process. Huge thanks to Sierra Club for making this all possible and to SCARPA for hooking us up with a solid line of technical ice climbing boots. Most of all thanks to all of you who brought positive energy and a bit of “try hard” to our four days out on the ice together.

Check out the great news cover story from our climbs:

Climbing, Rock, Gallatin Canyon, Bozeman, Big Sky, Montana, The Waltz, Multi-pitch climbs, Climbing guides, Montana Alpine Guides

Rock Climbing in Bozeman, MT

Hyalite Ice Conditions Update – 12/8/15

This warm weather will take a toll on some routes and help others to grow. With the warm weather came super high winds = wind loading so watch for deposition and wind slabs through out the canyon – As always check GNFAC for the latest snow conditions. Let us know if you have seen something we haven’t.

Hyalite Ice Conditions 2015-16

From November 1st – April 1st Montana Alpine Guides will be updating ice climbing conditions for Hyalite Canyon and other southwest Montana areas every 1-2 weeks. We will be listing routes with “YES”“NO”, “MAYBE”, and “?” indicating if the ice is “in” or “not in”.

For the list of climbs and detailed description visit the Hyalite Ice Conditions Page.

backcountry ski photo, powder, big sky, bozeman, ski guides, montana alpine guides

Montana Alpine Guides now offers guided backcountry ski and snow board trips …

Montana Alpine Guides offers guided backcountry ski and snow board trips in and around Yellowstone National Park. This includes guided backcountry ski areas near Big Sky, Bozeman, and Cooke City. With reliable snow fall from December through May this area is renowned for its spectacular backcountry ski options for all levels of experience. More details …