We just finished one of our favorite group trips of the year, marking the 5th annual military veterans ice climb with Montana Alpine Guides in Hyalite Canyon. We spent four days sharing ice climbs and conversation with this great group with instruction from a solid crew including Sam Magro, Adam Knoff, Kyle Rott, Nate Opp, Aki Joy, and Conrad Anker. Veterans arrived from all corners of the country, some having never climbed ice before, and all left as experienced ice climbers with a group of solid new friends.

It’s always an amazing experience to share what we love to do with such an appreciative group who is willing to give it all they have and have fun throughout the process. Huge thanks to Sierra Club for making this all possible and to SCARPA for hooking us up with a solid line of technical ice climbing boots. Most of all thanks to all of you who brought positive energy and a bit of “try hard” to our four days out on the ice together.

Check out the great news cover story from our climbs:
http://www.bozemandailychronicle.com/news/vets-chill-with-local-ice-climbing-pros/article_c1e8c1eb-dd61-55f0-8865-090902a65cb7.html

Several days and evenings with above freezing temps didn’t fair well for Hyalite ice. We are listing select routes we observed which are not all inclusive. With the colder temps coming up we could see a rebound or even the forming of some random smears. As for now here is what to expect:

Unnamed Wall:

• The Fat One – fractures in the ice down low
• Elevator Shaft – decent shape,
• All other routes took a serious hit; even the mixed climbs are suspect with warm temps as the rock becomes “unglued”.

Genesis Area:

• G1 left side is OK, right side is risky as this is when it tends to fall victim to gravity. Lower and Upper Green Sleeves – decent shape
• G2 – decent but the top half seems to be quite thin and slushy.
• Hangover – on its way out.
• Zack Attack – out.

Scepter and the Mummies areas:

• This area has taken a hit and most climbs look risky to play on. The bottom half of Mummy II seems to be in decent shape, top half looks haggard. The routes to the right of the Mummy also look quite grim. Upper mummy is hurting for certain.

Corner Climbs/Amphitheatre:

• Taking a hit from the sun

Dribbles Area:

• Dribbles – looks thin and grim, don’t expect any secure anchors or v threads
• Climb Above The Dribbles – Probably still in
• Silken Falls – looks a bit better
• Avalanche Gulch – looks all in from afar, can’t speak on ice quality
• Responsible – baked out by the sun

Winter Dance Area:

• WD – worked over by the sun
• Dialectic BD – was in, probably out by now
• Climbs below WD – took a serious hit from the sun

Cleo’s and Twin Area:

• Cleo’s/Airborne – on their way out, other routes in the vicinity may come in later (Matriarch, Mark Antony’s, etc.)
• Twin Falls – this climb stays in longer than any other. A great late season climb is to climb Twin then take it up to the north facing ice on Palace Butte, then follow the alpine mixed route to the summit.

OTHER:

• North facing aspects up high are bound to be in good shape. Good time of year to venture in to the Beartooths or other alpine objectives. As always judge for your self with regards to snow pack, ice conditions, etc.

NOTE: This is the time of year when the steeper routes begin to fall down so heads up. Best to stick to the shade and on lower angle ice, ice screws quickly become worthless this time of year under a warm sun. On the positive the road is in great shape and Practice Rock is dry for early rock season.